My mom is Lebanese-American, my dad is Italian-American, and I have been cooking and surrounded by food since I was born. My first restaurant, Compass Rose, is all about international street food. But for the second, I wanted a fire. All of those squares, those maydans, have fire. As we were talking, we realized we had a love for Middle Eastern food above all else. This led to a five-country trip, which started in Morocco, went on to Tunisia, then Georgia, Lebanon, and Turkey. It feels a little like Alice in Wonderland.
But then you open the main door, and there it is: the hearth. Everything in the restaurant is meaningful. Everything has a story.
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Everything is cooked on the hearth, which has a mammoth hood covered in copper. The fire is so big and so intense that these guys are sweating through their shirts in five minutes. There is something primal in the fire. The way people are drawn to it is insane. They just stare for hours.
If you love hummus or baba ganoush, this dairy-free dip will become a new favorite. Just make sure you have plenty of warm flatbread to scoop it all up. At Maydan the lamb shoulder is cooked sous vide until meltingly tender and then finished in the hearth until crisp and golden brown.
We adapted their recipe for the oven to similar effect. And it always means the same thing: a central public meeting place. A space for people to come together as a community, to mourn, to celebrate, to rebel. The poor people eat there and the rich people eat there. A maydan brings everyone together over a common emotion. And that is powerful. Sirichai Sreparplarn back row center in orange hat with his staff, who coordinate their colorful costumes every Saturday this was Bowie night.
But the atmosphere is pure fun. My best memory of my dad cooking is him pounding curry paste because nobody else could make it the way he wanted. He pounded all day, for hours and hours. Here at Ugly Baby, we make our curry paste the way my dad did: with a mortar and pestle. Warm water, beer, and milk help too. Later he helped lead the kitchen at the short-lived but critically acclaimed Kao Soy in Red Hook, then a pop-up down the street called Chiang Mai.
When he finally succeeded, he named the place Ugly Baby after an old Thai superstition: calling newborns unattractive so that the evil spirits will leave them alone. Born and raised in Bangkok, Sreparplarn learned to cook from his parents. His father would spend hours at home pounding curry paste, and his mother worked as a chef at a hotel. Am I in a comfort zone already? I have to dare to do more.
The hottest restaurant in New York? We already know what is good. Fresh, ripe red Thai bird chiles release the best aroma and flavor. We also sometimes use the bigger cayenne chile pepper for texture and color but not really for flavor. Cool, crunchy herbs and veggies balance heat. It is the base of almost all my dishes. Thai cooking has adopted so many methods from so many different cuisine from China, from Myanmar, from Thai Muslims, today from Koreans, from the Japanese. But the key to Thai cuisine, if we strip all that off, is the paste.
That is the real Thailand to me. You get rye bread, you get pickles, and the idea is that you create this massive sandwich out of everything. Similar to Cheers, you can receive a call at the bar. I would love if one of the employees answered the phone and went into the dining room and called out to someone.
This took double the time to install than all the newly manufactured wallpaper did. It was like trying to put up newspaper. It was thin and delicate and had to be done with a very gentle hand. The background is a kind of burgundy color, and the flowers are grayish-white, which play off the marble counter below.
It depicts perched birds with strawberries in their mouths. The color scheme seems kind of country club to me. It feels a little more like a speakeasy: dimmer, boozier. The wallpaper used along the bar to create that kind of Prohibition-esque atmosphere is a. Jonah Freedman tells us a few of them. As for the gold plumbing on the urinal, that was incredibly hard to get our hands on. That was deep web. We had them custom made. This is meant to kind of clear your visual palette for the moment before you enter the bathroom and see the amazing It's vibrant, fun, confusing.
The outside gets crispy and renders the inside soft and mashed potato-y. It seemed like a nice everyday wallpaper: not too dark, but had enough patterning to feel cozy and intimate at night, like a well-worn British country home. The many browns, tans, and oranges play off the saddle-like cognac leather cushions. Genius is when you take a timeless concept, turn it on its head, and redefine it. Here, Jonah breaks down every careful detail, from the latkes to the lavatory.
We said to each other, "What if this place were a little younger, a little cooler, had some great music playing, and a menu geared toward a more modern customer? What would that look like? I wanted to fill everything. Our bar is made from an old hearth we found. A local tattoo artist, Aron Dubois, did our logo.
Because your grandparents, as they go through time, they collect things. And all of these eras exist at once. All the bagels are hand rolled and made in-house. For example:. I think [former L. Times critic] Jonathan Gold called them quenelles. We serve them in Luminarc Amberline cookware we found in Koreatown.
We swap the traditional corned beef for our pastrami, which is brined and smoked in-house. Other modern delis have popped up, but a lot of them were just changing the deli aesthetic, going light and bright—minimalist design with subway tile. Where can we bring this idea of Jewish food to another level?
I grew up going to delis with my grandfather in Toronto. Sour pickles are staples of Jewish cooking, but I find them boring. Thus, the half-sour salad was born. Our latkes are done in a waffle iron. Our brisket is served with bone marrow—which just pushes it in a more French direction. We have a lot of French customers, actually. I was born in a refugee camp in Thailand after my parents fled the genocide in Cambodia in the s.
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I was two years old when I came to the States. But even though I had never been to Cambodia, I was still connected to the country because of the stories I heard growing up. I was 23 or It was so trippy. Everywhere I went I was like, Wow, these are all the foods I grew up eating.
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This noodle soup dish, listed on the menu as kuy teav Phnom Penh, is what inspired me to start Nyum Bai. There are three main parts: rich broth, rice noodles, and meat toppings.
Then the garnishes: crispy garlic, black pepper, cilantro, green onions, and lime. When I was in Phnom Penh, I started my mornings eating it at my favorite noodle stall. Halfway through eating the soup, I started thinking, Oh my gosh, this is so good, but no one in America knows about it. But in Phnom Penh life was just happening all around me.
People had moved on from the war; they were living, celebrating, having a good time.
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Cambodia has such a rich and beautiful history. And I thought people needed to know more about Cambodian food because it is so damn good. I remember the smell of cutting lemongrass, mixing it in with the garlic and shallots and lime leaves. To make prahok ktiss, she would stir-fry the paste with pork belly and let it simmer so the fat would incorporate with all the other flavors and create this thick creamy dip for raw veggies. I was hesitant to put this on the menu at first because it was so different and weird, but all the customers who have tried it have come back just to order it.
At her deeply personal restaurant in the East Bay, Nite Yun reimagines the Cambodian food of her childhood, from soulful bowls of Cambodian noodle soup to flavorful marinated pork chops, all set to a psychedelic Khmer playlist. Here are three dishes that transport Yun back in time. Nyum Bai started as a pop-up but opened a brick-and-mortar location in February This simple marinated pork chop with rice, bai sach chrouk, reminds me of my childhood.
My mom would marinate the pork overnight in coconut milk, soy sauce, and garlic, and then my brothers and I would come home from school, pan-fry it ourselves, and eat it with rice. If we wanted, we could put an egg on top. As far as I can remember, back to five or six years old, I was always in the kitchen with my mom. Growing up, we were isolated from the community. I think my parents were just shocked when they arrived in America.
It was very difficult for them to assimilate.
After the refugee camp in Thailand, we moved to Texas for a few months and then to Stockton, California, where there was a bigger Cambodian community. We lived in an apartment complex with a lot of other Cambodian families, but we kind of stayed to ourselves. All that was taken away from them by the regime. Most restaurants source theirs from year-round aquaculture farms in Japan, but we prefer ours wild-caught and in-season. We wash it with salt and top it with grated ginger. We source scallops from Hokkaido, Japan, through a relationship I built with a fish purveyor while working at previous restaurants.
Chef Cody Auger preps short-grain Calrose rice for service in a hangiri, a round flat-bottomed wooden tub used for rice making. The shad is heavily salted for 30 minutes, then rinsed with vinegar, then rested in a vinegar marinade for another 30 minutes. It takes us about 45 minutes per day to make the omelets.
Like most sushi, the secret to uni lies in who your source is. I have a great source for this in Japan. We wrap it in nori and serve it. The result is a briny piece of sushi that ends very sweet. Afterward, we drop the fish into an ice bath and the salt falls off. We do this to preserve a layer of fat between the skin and the flesh. That fat adds a major boost to the flavor. Impeccably sourced fish, perfectly seasoned rice, and relentless attention to detail define every bite at this transcendent sushi bar.
Chef Cody Auger takes us through a few pieces of his ethereal Edomae-style sushi. Hanging at the table before the sushi arrives at Nimblefish, a collaboration of chefs Cody Auger and Dwight Rosendahl and wine guru Kurt Heilemann. We boil it, clean it, and shell it, then we take the crab innards, or the kani-miso, and toss that in with the crabmeat.
We wrap all of that meat in nori and serve it. Because we want the sourcing to really shine, we keep the preparation minimal. We lightly salt everything on the skin side and let it sweat a little bit. The bar seats are the best in the house. We cook the outside of the fish with hot water and marinate it in a soy-based marinade for 20 to 30 minutes. Does America need another Italian restaurant?
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If that restaurant is Che Fico, the answer is a definitive yes. From practically the moment it opened, this place has been humming like a restaurant in its second decade. We try to be really hands-off when rolling it to keep it extra flaky. The citrus version came out of desperation, to be honest. I loved it. I wanted to make ours really silky and smooth, so I use a little less egg and I add some very grassy olive oil for richness. I like a savory touch in the sweet dishes, so I dust the candied walnuts with salt. Pastry pro Angela Pinkerton in back gets in on the tasting with chef David Nayfeld in blue shirt.
The next day we sold 40 of them. Chef Tsuyoshi Nishioka breaks down his unforgettable niku udon. Lead cook Tomohiro Shinoda examines each strand carefully. He hopes to open his own noodle shop in Seattle some day. Then I went to Setouchi Seimen in Osaka, one of the more famous udon restaurants in Japan, and that really changed it for me.
I only wanted to eat udon. Specifically niku [beef] udon. It should be bouncy. A few years ago, I asked the owner of Setouchi Seimen to teach me. I worked from early morning to late at night, mixing the dough, stomping it with my feet to flatten it out, and then stretching and pressing it to make it smoother. In this volume, leading international scholars from the different language areas making up the civil-law world give an account of the way legal philosophy has evolved in these areas in the 20th century, the outcome being an overall mosaic of civil-law legal philosophy in this arc of time.
Further, specialists in the field describe the development that legal philosophy has undergone in the 20th century by focusing on three of its main subjects—namely, legal positivism, natural-law theory, and the theory of legal reasoning—and discussing the different conceptions that have been put forward under these labels.
The layout of the volume is meant to frame historical analysis with a view to the contemporary theoretical debate, thus completing the Treatise in keeping with its overall methodological aim, namely, that of combining history and theory as a necessary means by which to provide a comprehensive account of jurisprudential thinking. Born in Rome on April 8, Graduated summa cum laude in law from the University of Bologna, , with a dissertation on Hans Kelsen and Alf Ross. Libero docente Habilitationsschrift in the philosophy of law, Was awarded a position as full professor in legal philosophy through a national competition for a professorship in Italy.
Tenured professor in legal philosophy at the Bologna University School of Law. Served as dean of the Bologna University School of Law from to , and then as member of the Bologna University Board of Directors from to Main research fields: Legal philosophy, general jurisprudence, the history of legal ideas, and computer science and law. Author of over two hundred publications. Main speaker at national and international conferences. Promoted with others and served as member of the Ph. Coordinator: Uberto Scarpelli. Founder: Roberta Kevelson. Cofounded the European Association for the Teaching of Legal Theory, based in Brussels, and have since sat on the board of directors.
Founded the Bologna University Ph. Founder: Gregorio Peces-Barba Spain. Associate Editors : Gerald J. Stein University of Cambridge, UK. Founded the Italian Society for Law and Literature www. He holds a Ph. His main interests are in social and legal ontology, the theory of norms and normativeness, and the philosophy of normative language.
Bertea and G. Bongiovanni and A. Rotolo, in The Rules of Inference. Inferentialism in Law and Philosophy , eds. Canale and G. Bongiovanni, A.